Piątek, 1 marzec 2013, 20:06
Spieszmy się kochać perfumy...
W sumie nie mam nic do dodania, dwie rzeczy do poczytania.
Po pierwsze, o przyszłości. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article ... rgies.html
Po drugie, o teraźniejszości
W sumie nie mam nic do dodania, dwie rzeczy do poczytania.
Po pierwsze, o przyszłości. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article ... rgies.html
Po drugie, o teraźniejszości
Cytat:Reformulation of fragrances is one of the hardest things that perfumistas have to deal with. That's one of the reasons why sampling is such a great idea. Smelling a fragrance now may not be the same as it was when you first smelled it and this can be said of both vintage and fragrances from just a few years ago. If you are all set to buy another bottle of your favorite fragrance, it might not smell the same. With all of the regulations by the IFRA, many ingredients can no longer be used in fragrances as they once were. In the latest amendment, the proportion of oakmoss extracts in a finished fragrance must not exceed 0.1% and the proportion of jasmine absolute must not exceed 0.7%.
For those of you who do not know, IFRA stands for International Fragrance Association and their purpose is to promote the safe enjoyment of fragrances. They represent the fragrance industry worldwide and have a Code of Practice which applies to the manufacture and handling of all fragrance materials. Its members create over 90% of the world's fragrances. They issue a catalog of perfumery ingredients' guidelines which the manufacturing companies comply with in order to minimize potential customer complaints and lawsuits. This has been sanctioned as law by the EU Commission at Brussels. Now restricted is not the same as prohibited, but allowing ingredients to be used just up to a certain level will change many of the classic fragrances.
Perfumes get reformulated all of the time due to many reasons, not just the IFRA. Companies may use cheaper ingredients, once plentiful natural resources can become scarce, pre-made specialty bases are no longer available and natural resources may change from year to year such as a crop of jasmine.
Many fragrance materials are now on the banned list by IFRA including tuberose absolute, oakmoss, jasmine grandiflorum absolute, jasmine sambac absolute, coumarin, bergamot leaf and peel oils, birch tar oil, ambrette seed oil, carnation absolute, cassie absolute, heliotropin, styrax, fig leaf absolute, grapefruit peel oil, lemon peel oil (are you crying yet?), lemon verbena absolute, narcissus absolute, orange blossom oil and absolute, orange peel oil, peru balsam oil, rose absolute, rose oil, (how about now?), Australian sandalwood oil, opoponax and the list goes on and on. In 2008 IFRA standards stated that companies were supposed to reformulate all existing perfumes by August, 2010, to be compliant with their standards. So fragrances have been reformulated and many people are finding that their old favorites just don't smell the same. And, in some cases, perfume houses have decided not to continue producing a fragrance if they can't be at the standard that they once were (Guerlain Parure and Creed Vetiver 1948 for instance). This is a source of hot debate on fragrance boards!
Probably the most hardest hit are oakmoss-based fragrances (such as Guerlain Mitsouko) which have changed significantly. Reformulation is not something that the perfume houses publicize; and in many cases, their formula may not have changed but perhaps instead of using Mysore sandalwood as they once had done, they are now using a cheaper grade sandalwood. A perfumista will know that their fragrance does not smell the same.
Synthetic scents are nothing new to the perfume industry and today they make up the majority of components of most fragrances but natural elements such as oakmoss serve to add richness to the scent. Virtually all modern fragrances are a combination of natural and synthetic ingredients in different proportions and concentrations. It has been said that new perfumers have no great difficulty working within these guidelines as they do not feel restraint in not being able to use what they have not worked with before, but the real problem is more with the classics from the bigger brands - Chanel, Guerlain, Dior, etc.
In 2010 a group of perfumers got together in the Outlaw Project to create perfumes using botanical perfume materials that are on the IFRA/EU restricted and/or banned list. In the past years, more and more natural ingredients have been considered to be hazardous and the Project was born out of protest by those feeling that a simple warning label suggesting caution should be enough. The Outlaws were defying IFRA standards by making perfumes with large amounts of such common perfume building blocks as jasmine, rose, bergamot and oakmoss. It was spearheaded by natural perfumer Anya McCoy of Anya's Garden and includes the following perfumers: Anya McCoy (Ambresse and Light), Elise Pearlstine of Belly Flowers Perfumes (Rose of Cimarron), Jane Cate of A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes (Notoriety), Adam Gottschalk of Lord's Jester (Daphne), Alfredo Dupetit-Bernardi of Bio-Scent (Cannabis), Lisa Fong of Artemisia Natural Perfume (Belle Star), Dawn Spencer Hurwitz (Mata Hari), Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume Company (Gypsy), and Jo Anne Bassett (Amazing).