Wtorek, 6 kwiecień 2021, 20:27
Nowe propozycje od Amouage
https://nstperfume.com/2021/04/06/amouag...ragrances/
https://nstperfume.com/2021/04/06/amouag...ragrances/
Wtorek, 6 kwiecień 2021, 20:27
Nowe propozycje od Amouage
https://nstperfume.com/2021/04/06/amouag...ragrances/
Wtorek, 6 kwiecień 2021, 20:42
Wtorek, 6 kwiecień 2021, 21:28
Oficjalny press relase do nowych aromatow:
AMOUAGE TAKES A LIBERATING VOYAGE INTO A ‘BOUNDLESS’ WORLD WITH INTANGIBLE ‘MATERIAL’ Muscat, Oman – April 2021: A journey into a sensory kaleidoscope. Amouage has unveiled its latest creations: Boundless and Material. Together they plunge deep into a synaesthetic fantasy, depicting humankind’s awakening to the novelty of pure existence, consumed with the joy of newfound liberation, free from any prejudice or discrimination. Masterfully brought to life by perfumers Karine Vinchon-Spehner and Cécile Zarokian under the creative direction of Renaud Salmon, Boundless and Material embody the power of liberation. “Boundless and Material are traditional woody-spicy oriental creations, reminiscent of early personal olfactive memories of a time when the apparent lightness of life brought us simple pleasures that shaped our happiness,” explains Salmon. “They offer our senses fragrances where natural materials are showcased with rare purity and abundance to echo the life-bringing energy of liberation.” Boundless is a burst of joy, a fleeting euphoria, translating the vertical tension that empowers those who want to enclose in their hands the immensity of the world. This ardent and vivacious energy echoes that of sunlight bouncing off the dewy leaves of the jungle, flickering in rays through a flower-studded canopy and grazing rainbow-barked trees before vanishing amongst gnarled and misty-kissed boughs. In Boundless, this rite of spring comes alive through tones of spices, clear and crisp, dancing in the shade of deep and somber trees. A stark contrast of warm Cinnamon Leaf and exalting Blood Orange bridged by a fruity Ginger gives way to a heart where Myrrh Resinoid and brittle Tobacco Leaves gleam, at turns honeyed and bitter, while here and there sparks camphoraceous Cardamom, its cold bite gripping onto zingy accents of Papyrus Oil before fading in the mellow haze of a rare and silky Madagascar Vanilla CO2 Extract. Shying behind an Oakmoss veil, Balsams diffuse their hushed and sticky warmth, the Frankincense and the Elemi and the smoky Guaiacwood, their waxiness emphasasing that of an even darker, fruitier, richer Bourbon Vanilla Absolute, shimmering like jungle’s very jewel. “When I created Boundless, I wanted to play with the idea of a ‘golden wood’ and a gateway to a dense jungle where wood essences of all kinds can be perceived. I used the raw aspect of vetiver roots, the smoky effect of guaiac wood and the earthy tones of patchouli, supported by oak moss. I represented the reflection of sun rays piercing through the branches with natural materials evoking light and the golden colour, such as vanilla, cardamom and ginger or balsams: frankincense, benzoin, labdanum and myrrh,” expressed Karine Vinchon-Spehner. Material is a paradox – through materiality, it evokes immateriality, teaching us to look beyond appearances and to realise that what matters is often unseen; an experience akin to standing in a grove and seeing in the sweltering shade a multitude of textures and manifold hues of wood and leaf and bark; all coming together into one. Material is not a mere study on Vanilla: it is Vanilla untamed and unleashed. The opening shines under the angelic halo of Frankincense and Elemi, together rising in billows of light, their citrusy zest turning the material Vanilla Absolute into a hallowed balm. They herald with a bright and golden hue the entrance of Benzoin melding into a cloud of Tonka Bean that covers like a shroud a tiaré-like Vanilla before its fall into a crackling pyre of dry woods. The ambery purr of Labdanum, the cocoa-rich dampness of Patchouli and the animalic might of Oud highlight the dark side of their Queen, yet light still prevails through the honeyed-apricot flesh of a plush Osmanthus bloom steeped in a pool of White Musks ending the finale and taking Vanilla to a heavenly realm. “Material is all about vanilla absolute, one of the most emblematic natural substances used in perfumery. In this fragrance, the star ingredient possesses a dual personality, presenting both a comforting side and a leathery, animalic facet; constantly shifting between innocence and wildness. The heart of the creation shines through precious balsams: benzoin, frankincense and labdanum. Finally, the scent delves deeper into a dark forest of thousands of woods, where shapes and colours become blurred,” said Cécile Zarokian. The fragrances’ sophisticated, sensual and deep imagery was gracefully captured through the eye of Belgian artist, Louise Mertens who paired with the Swedish-Belgian design duo, Studio Corkinho. “I like how they express cork’s sensory possibilities, centered on its purest expression, and elevate it to the category of a work of art. Taking a material that people know for its everyday functional properties, ennobling it, giving it an artful touch and creating a raw, bold, massive aesthetic language: this to me is the spirit of Boundless and Material” said Renaud Salmon. The packaging, designed by British designer Bill Radzinowicz, is inspired by “rainbow-barked trees” while the unique colour palette of the bottles was specially curated by French art director, Jerome Faillant-Dumas. The duo is serenaded by special soundtracks produced by Belgian music producer Copal. Boundless and Material are available in all Amouage boutiques and distributors worldwide starting mid-April 2021 and can be purchased online at www.amouage.com. -ENDS- KEY FRAGRANCE NOTES Boundless Top: Blood Orange Oil, Cardamom Oil, Ginger CO2, Elemi Oil. Heart: Vanilla Bourbon Absolute and CO2, Benzoin Resinoid. Base: Guaiac Wood Oil, Papyrus Oil, Cocoa Absolute, Tobacco Absolute, Oak Moss Absolute, Frankincense Absolute and Oil, Myrrh Resinoid, Vetiver Oil, Patchouli Oil. Material Top: Elemi Oil, Patchouli Oil. Heart: Vanilla Madagascar Absolute, Benzoin Resinoid. Base: Guaiac Wood Oil, Oud Oil, Osmanthus Absolute, Frankincense Resinoid, Labdanum Absolute, Tonka Bean Absolute. Both fragrances are 100ml Eau de Parfum with 25% fragrance oil. ABOUT THE PERFUMERS: KARINE VINCHON-SPEHNER It takes a certain kind of perfumer to rise up to the challenge that was writing a perfume about the frantic and vivid energy that runs through the trees and leaves and trunks and roots of the primeval forests of the Earth. To capture the everchanging power of freedom in a scent. Boundless is Karine Vinchon-Spehner’s tenth collaboration with Amouage and her first under Renaud Salmon’s creative direction. After studying at ISIPCA, Karine Vinchon-Spehner entered Robertet and there moved up the creative ladder, guided by Michel Almairac. She started collaborating with Amouage in 2010 with the release of Memoir Man and has since created eight more fragrances, weaving her sophisticated, uncompromising “patte” into the grander Amouage narrative. Her acute knowledge of exotic raw materials, her passion for beauty in all its forms -she is indeed a singer and painter as well- made her the obvious choice to put into scent the synaesthetic energy that lives through Boundless. Karine Vinchon-Spehner’s creations for Amouage: Memoir Man (2010), Opus III (2010), Interlude Woman (2012), Fate Man & Woman (2013), Myths Man (2016), Bracken Man (2016), Figment Woman (2017), Overture Man (2019) and Boundless (2021). CÉCILE ZAROKIAN Opulence calls for opulence and queens beckon other queens. There are few perfumers who could claim to mirror and ennoble the untamable, proud and sensual flair of a raw material as regal as Vanilla; few who could bottle the psychedelic ripples of colours and textures in a sweltering half-lit jungle. Material marks Cécile Zarokian’s awaited return to Amouage since creating Epic Woman in 2009. An ISIPCA alumnus and Robertet perfumer, Cécile Zarokian trod her own path by becoming at 27 the youngest independent woman perfumer of our age. Cécile Zarokian’s first creation for Amouage also happened to be her very first perfume, paving the way for a decade of fragrances showcasing a certain grandiloquence and Eastern homeliness that would earn her the nickname of “Queen of Ambers”. Her humility, curiosity and panartistic vision of her craft meant she alone could capture the essence of Material by precisely casting a new light onto perfumery’s very oldest material, restoring Vanilla to a newfound state of glory. Cécile Zarokian’s creations for Amouage: Epic Woman (2009) and Material (2021). FOCUS ON VANILLA: Native to the Americas and wild-harvested by the Totonac tribe since centuries, Vanilla was revered as the material symbol of love here on Earth, its complex aroma - a web of pure vanillin, phenolic creosol, smoky guaiacol and fruity methyl-salicylate- representing the duality of passion and the sacrificial nature of loving another more than oneself. Due to its prohibitively high cost, the Vanilla used in perfumery nowadays is mostly vanillin, an aldehyde naturally occurring in vanilla pods and responsible for its unmistakably sweet fragrance, either processed from guaiacol or lignin, the same lignin used to make paper and which over time degrades into vanillin, explaining the oddly comforting “old book” smell. Thus, Renaud Salmon chose natural Vanilla as the main player in the scent of Liberation, an energy as delectably ravishing and passionately bold as love itself... here dually expressed in Boundless and Material. For Boundless, Karine Vinchon-Spehner chose to work with a rare Bourbon Vanilla CO2 Extract as its aroma, in comparison to the Vanilla Absolute, sits closer to that of a fresh vanilla pod. For Material, Cécile Zarokian opted for a Madagascar Vanilla Absolute highlighting its darker and boozier facets as a way to show us that Vanilla is everything but “vanilla”. BOURBON VANILLA CO2 EXTRACT Sunkissed cirques, emerald mountains, vivid greens and lush plains... The term “Bourbon Vanilla” refers to the former name of the Réunion island where it was cultivated for the first time. Nestled between the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean and the snowy cap of the Piton des Neiges, the Bourbon Vanilla still grows there, Queen in her own kingdom, worshipped and honoured by generations of creole inhabitants who kept the tradition of vanilla pollination, harvesting and curing alive for 180 years. Often considered the best vanilla in the world, it is noticeably gentler and more intricate than most other varieties, displaying a characteristic sweetness delicately arrayed with smoke and spice. The supercritical CO2 extraction, being less invasive than the traditional solvent extraction, allows for purer, clearer and cleaner materials with scent profiles radically lighter than their Absolute counterparts. This costly Bourbon Vanilla CO2 Extract lends a powdery and milky halo to an overture dominated by a vibrant chord of crackling Ginger and Cardamom, smoothening edges that could have otherwise been too rough and infusing with an innocent flair a heart of thick and stern woods. A sweet and airy ray of light sifting through jungle’s dewy night. MADAGASCAR VANILLA ABSOLUTE Coruscant noonshine, red and burning clay and paddies far and wide... A long and slender pod, striped and shiny like polished leather, Madagascar Vanilla is the most widely known of all varieties and has become the standard for all others. It is the jewel of an island which nature ripens with the fragrance of ylang-ylang, Madagascar Vanilla grows mostly on the sweltering highlands dotted with green paddies and deep-blue springs. There, brushed only by the dry air engulfing from nearby African shores, it takes on distinctive aromas of cocoa, caramel and overripe prunes, making it the most pungent and perhaps most pâtissière of all. The traditional method for extracting Vanilla was to tincture it in alcohol, then came the solvent extraction, which allowed the use of Vanilla Absolute. This process -which involves washing the raw material several times in a solvent to obtain a concrete which will then be washed in ethanol to obtain an absolute- implies losing many of vanilla’s precious aromatic compounds to keep only the heaviest ones. This Madagascar Vanilla Absolute offers an everchanging background, its resinous facet met with an array of precious balsams, its smoky and animalic intensity echoed by that of oud and ambery woods, its fruitiness by a touch of Osmanthus, an overall density alighted by a wind of White Musks. Sheen, shimmer and shine in a grove of bronze and gold.
Wtorek, 6 kwiecień 2021, 22:33
Mocno "mainstreamowy" skład tych perfum...
Amouage pod nowym kierownictwem płynie bardzo z głównym nurtem... Lubie wanilię ( modna ingerencja w tym roku ), więc chętnie przetestuję...
Środa, 7 kwiecień 2021, 00:33
Wanilia od Amouage i to x2
Ciekawe czy duetowi Karine Vinchon-Spehner i Cecile Zarokian uda się stracić z tronu Antoine Lie i jego narkotyczną Vanille Havane dla Les Indemodables Jeśli ktoś jest specem od wanilii i potrafiłby naświetlić różnice pomiędzy Bourbon wanilia, a Madagaskar wanilia to zapraszam do wątku: https://perfuforum.pl/thread-2360-post-6...#pid696911
Środa, 7 kwiecień 2021, 09:21
Składy nie prezentują się jakoś megaciekawie, ale równie dobrze można by wskazać zapachy z ultraciekawymi składami na papierze, które pachną zwyczajnie. Niczego bym nie przesądzał, tym bardziej, że za sterami stanęły specjalistki najwyższych lotów.
Środa, 7 kwiecień 2021, 10:29
Skład nie prezentuje się ciekawie ? Bo jak mnie wzrok nie myli jest mega ciekawie i bogato. to jak ma być ? Kalabryjska bergamotka,fasolka tonka,paczula?
Środa, 7 kwiecień 2021, 10:44
Mi też skład się bardzo podoba, ale właściwie jaki by nie był, to chociaż kropelkę bezwzględnie bym siebie nałożył
Środa, 7 kwiecień 2021, 10:50
Wszystko dobrze poza kolorem flakonu Boundless. Oby nie przesądzał o samym zapachu.
Środa, 7 kwiecień 2021, 11:14
Poprzednia seria, poza jednym wyjątkiem mogłaby śmiało bazować na wspomnianym kolorze
Środa, 7 kwiecień 2021, 11:32
Nuty nutami (można je przedstawić na milion różnych sposobów), porządnych perfumiarzy zaangażowali także ostatnim razem, a wiemy jak wyszło. Ja zachowuję ostrożny dystans i tym razem nie rzucam się na flakony ani odlewki zaraz po premierze.
„Elegancja jest niemożliwa bez perfum. To skryte, niezapomniane, ostateczne akcesoria.” - Gabrielle Coco Chanel
Środa, 7 kwiecień 2021, 11:49
Ja też zachowam powściągliwość :-)
Artur
Środa, 7 kwiecień 2021, 16:42
Juz w Harrods
Czwartek, 8 kwiecień 2021, 09:58
(Środa, 7 kwiecień 2021, 10:29)pablo9910 napisał(a): Skład nie prezentuje się ciekawie ? Bo jak mnie wzrok nie myli jest mega ciekawie i bogato. to jak ma być ? Kalabryjska bergamotka,fasolka tonka,paczula? Skład co prawda bogaty, ale jakimś szczególnie ciekawym to bym go nie określił. Brak jakichś przełomowych składników, albo niecodziennych zestawień. I o ile to jeszcze o niczym nie świadczy, to już deklaracja, że wanilia ma być w centrum kompozycji, nakazuje nakazywać ostrożność.
Czwartek, 8 kwiecień 2021, 17:12
Jestem bardzo pozytywnie nastawiony na nowe aromaty z kilku przyczyn: po pierwsze to Amouage, po drugie, imiona tych kto je tworzyl. Zatrudnili dwa naprawde bardzo dobre nosy. Karine Vinchon stworzyla dla Amouage wiele znakomitych aromatow, w tym moj ulubiony Overture. Cecile Zarokian to Epic, imho najlepszy zenski Amouage za ostatnie 10 lat.
Po trzecie- noty (owszem sadzic o aromacie po piramidzie to nie najlepsze zajecie, i w realu to moze pachnac inaczej niz napisane w press relase) ale czerwona pomarancza, wanilia, skora, tyton... juz to chce, w ciemno Nie chce intrygi i deep creativity (starczylo mi Figment) chce hight quality commercial Amouage, i mam nadzieje ze Boundless to spelni, i stanie obok Overture. Wracajac do Renessance, wciaz nie uwazam ze sa zle, mimo ze nie sa dla mie. Amouage zrobili krok w strone mlodziezy i nowych konsumentow, dla ktorych klasyczna oferta marki jest zbyt ciezka i zbyt skomplikowana. Wystarczy pogadac prywatnie ze sprzedawczynia w corner Amouage i zapytac co lepiej sie sprzedaje. Odpowiedzi beda: - ludzie ciekawia sie, wachaja, ale kupuja inne marki, lzejsze.... - z Amouage najczesciej kupuja proste aromaty z Secret Garden Collection Wybor parfumiarzy do Renessance tez jest czesciowo zrozumialy, cala trojka ma wiekszy dorobek w mainstream niz w niche. Wyjatek to chyba Julien Rasquinet, ktory stworzyl jeden z najdrozczych Malle- The Moon, oraz aromaty dla Elegantes, marki nalezacej parze hotelarzy, bardziej znanej z ladnych krysztalowych flakonow po £2,350 za szt. (jesli ktos wachal aromaty marki to chetnie poczytam) Domitille Michalon to duzo-duzo mainstremu, rowniez dobrego. Mackenzie Reilly- w-g Fragrantica w portfolio ma asz 10 aromatow, z nich 2 dla Amouage, najpopularniejszy aromat w jej dorobku "Faf Away Glamour" dla Avon wiec nawet nie chce to kommentowac....))) Dlatego, wybor parfumiarzy dla Renessance jest calkiem oczewisty i zrozumialy pod wzgledem marketingowym, a Amouage dodali sobie nowych kientow. Z tego co mowia (prywatnie) Renessance dobrze sie sprzedaje. Nie jak gorace buleczki, ale lepiej niz aromaty z drugiej dekady Chonga.
Czwartek, 8 kwiecień 2021, 18:36
Czwartek, 8 kwiecień 2021, 20:13
Piątek, 9 kwiecień 2021, 09:21
High quality commercial macie na półkach sieciowych perfumerii (pod kilkoma względami jeszcze bardziej "high" niż Amouage). Nigdy nie spodziewałem się, że od Perfumaniaków usłyszę, że Amouage ma równać do mainstreamu.
„Elegancja jest niemożliwa bez perfum. To skryte, niezapomniane, ostateczne akcesoria.” - Gabrielle Coco Chanel
Piątek, 9 kwiecień 2021, 09:30
Ale nigdy nie dorówna,bo go znacznie przewyższa
Piątek, 9 kwiecień 2021, 09:39
Oby po serii Renaissance i tych nowych nie okazało się, że trzeba mówić "przewyższało" .
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